Did you find this enlightening? Look over all of your vacuum lines and fittings. Turned it off and on again. It sounds to me like it is way retarded.In the event that the timing is right then take a look at your AFR--the actual AFR, not the target. It is simply for the benefit of the user. TPS 0. And since they really had an insanely-tight monetary and real estate budget in the Sniper EFI System, it is unlikely that the added something that wasn't absolutely necessary--and then forgot to use it..And you are spot on about the little Earl's gauge with optional -6 AN port. RPM = 1200My slow gear I leave with 650 RPM, the IAC Position I leave between 5 and 6%, the :-) Just don't let the parts go flying. It is probably that your RPM above the maximum point at which ramp-down can occur. (I'm running from a fuel cell on the garage floor 10 feet away with lines in plain sight and do see fuel coming from the return at a decent flow. I then saw you guys have an awesome little gauge that can hookup inline to the snipers existing fuel feed?? I appreciate everything you are saying. Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? Just thought I'd ask as there isn't a lot of info out there. It is a common one. While adjusting the screw if the TPS position reads begins to read higher than 0% cycling the ignition switch will recalibrate the TPS back to zero. At idle my IAC is 3-4, AFR around 13-14, TPS is 0, timing 15-17. I have a feeling it's something simple but I thought I'd ask you first before I inadvertently change something that affects other areas. Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. The on board fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper throttle body has a small filter clipped over one end . ChrisI finally got everything resolved. I'm also having a high idle problem but its different. Glad to hear that things are working well! Glad to hear that you have timing control enabled, Gary. With the vehicle in neutral, adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. But, whether your vendor provides you with tech support or sends you to Holley, I'd start by getting them a data log and asking for some insight. The fuel pump is mounted under rocker panel as low as possible and far away from any heat. I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. It would be possible to set up a 1D or 2D table and do something like this, so if you've gotten into these advanced setups then that would be another thing to check.If neither of these work then I'd recommend that you do a data log of the engine idling as the temperature is reaching and then exceeding 200 degrees. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. That could be a problem with the TPS or it could be some sort of throttle linkage issue. Holley Sniper IAC Surging???? Capability Range: Advanced In the time it takes to add your email address you can be at the top of the heap for getting the latest information from our authority. Idle when warm was 850-ish and IAC 3-4 just as when I readjusted it the night before. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. Then why don't you Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? (Plus they it just looks way cool in your engine compartment!) I also noted that after some time, I could change those values as I saw fit. If I put the vehicle in gear the idle gets higher with temp. I go into much more detail about that in this article on startup tuning. Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year. I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. Is this an issue to worry about? What I would recommend is getting somewhere that you can spend a significant amount of time doing starts. Does that make sense to you? While it is not mandatory, I recommend the Sniper EFI CAN-to-USB Adapter to move the data between your Sniper EFI and your PC rather than trying to do this via the SD card. Chris thank you for the info. So I have been driving it for about 400 miles now to numerous car shows and going out for cruises around town, trying to work some of the bugs out from everything we did this winter, but I notice when I take off from a stop sign or I cruise at a very low speed (say30 mph) it seems to be very boggy from no throttle to about 1/8th throttle. I will turn it up some. I have not heard of this. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. To do this, open up the Initial Startup gauge screen that was used in section 17.0. If the TPS is 1% or below then the ECU is in control--2% or greater and the ECU thinks you've got it under control. On EFI systems such as Holley's Sniper, all of the EFI sensors (except for the O2 and coolant temperature sender) are mounted snuggly in the throttle body. Reducing that a bit will help. Im in Australia, so stuck the sniper on a 355 Holden engine with CD box. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the IAC. I'd say make sure you buy from someone who can give you good after-purchase help (hint!) Chris---I am contemplating replacing my Holley 750 on my new low vacuum 600 HP 496 with the Holley Sniper FI system. When I drive with warm engine the IAC is at 30% when pushing gas, but shouldn't it be at 0%? Even though you think your timing is perfect I'd suggest you try cranking about 5-10 degrees of advance into the distributor and just see if that doesn't work better for you.Remember this: adjustable timing pointers go out of adjustment and harmonic balancers slip. The TPS will go red with a -15 and the AFR reads heating for a split second, then the idle kicks up to 2000RPM. They also recommended that their ground be spliced into the Sniper ground as close to the Sniper as possible. Stupid question, but where do I see if it's entering Learn mode? The data that you provide shows that you have at least two problems. If you patiently adjust this over the course of days you will get it just right.Again, glad this is working for you and look forward to a good report in the future! If you are using your Sniper EFI System to control timing, navigate to Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark and ensure that the Idle Spark Enabled is set to Disabled. I thought 12.0 was leaner at idle, but I figured out I was wrong.lol. Add To Cart. Some advanced conceptsIf you have the Sniper Can-Bus to USB Adapter, you can connect your laptop, open the software to the learn table, and get a visual for where in the table you are experiencing the lean bog. = 2.34 I' m going to put the 3 rd new pump this coming friday. I did buy the Sniper from you guys and the service was fantastic. Short drives is fine then it'll Tuning > Advanced > Adv Idle > IAC Startup issue. I was 20 minutes into a drive yesterday when all of the sudden the RPM increased not commanded. you have it set. Since your target is probably more like 700, and since 2400 is way over 1700 RPM, it's going to leave the IAC in the park position.Buckle down and find how air is getting into your engine. I have double checked everythingincluding fuel pressureand have followed the directions to a T.I plan on trying your 10 step process as soon as I get a chance. To figure this out it's going to be important to gather a bit more data. No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. Somehow air is entering the engine that was not entering the engine when you originally set the idle speed screw. I'll have to check again tomorrow. :-). to. So I have been doing the slow take offs and thinking that it would learn its way out. I can get it to fire up on the Note that sometimes you can get into a back-and-forth situation. I have certainly seen this before on other fuel injected vehicles when hot. Hey Tommy, we've got at least one thing in common. Enjoy your Sniper! Does this seem reasonable and how hard will it be to get the idle and off-idle performance correct? If your mixture is too rich, it means there's too much fuel and not enough air. Thanks again Chris, your help has been invaluable.If anyone is considering going EFI, Chris is the man to chat with. Ok, so I'm stumped! Start with the most gradual throttle input you need to launch well, then slightly increase until you feel some stumble. AGAIN This is Intermittent meaning on a recent trip I stopped 3 times and issued occurred once. Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. TP range is normal goes up to about 90% with throttle pedal to the floor. 90% of time with engine hot. In the Wizard, select the stock cam setting. Initial Baseline Idle Speed Screw Setting, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.neral-IAC-Info, http://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf, https://forums.holley.com/showthread-Idle-Solution, If this is your first visit, be sure to Running a bbc with coil - my timing is perfect. Price Point: $, Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. It has a lightweight centrifugal spring kit installed so I reach total timing around 2500 rpm. Contact whomever sold you your system or Holley directly. holley efi. The timing can drift 0-30 degrees just due to the width of the rotor tip. NOTE: Do not attempt to set the target idle speed and IAC position until the engine is above 160F! Hope this helps! If I go any more it will ping. If it is already adding fuel, it may be worth expanding this into the area where the tip-in is occuring (and where there is no learning occuring. Part# 538-13. This curve turns the idle speed down as the engine warms. !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the Ive had an idle at neutral as high as 2400 rpm. That is the IAC hold position. OK, I did the baseline idle speed screw setting. Free ground shipping regardless of order size! It wont fire up. Your closed loop compensation is adding a full 50% fuel. The link above includes the option to buy a -6 AN You will find a startup IAC percentage, an amount of time it holds at that percentage, and an amount of time it takes to idle down to the normal idle speed.By default, that number is 50% at normal operating temperature. I also tried changing roc/map to 8 from 15 again no change at all.My ve table is smooth and tuned I even changed my AFR to 13.5 from 14.2 and no change at all. THANK YOU for the "First--Check Your Idle Speed Curve Setting!" If i adjust the throttle plate screw in to bring IAC in to proper range say around 7 the engine is running around 2000 rpm. is train the system or there is actually something wrong.I do love the system at A few, however, get tangled up getting the idle control working just the way they want. Have you confirmed your fuel pressure at idle is 60 PSI? If the solutions suggested above are not working then you need to review my article on IAC Testing Procedures. Capability Range: Professional Or, at least, it should. I installed the Holley Sniper in my Chevelle this winter with a brand new BluePrint 496. This is normally used as an A/C idle-up circuit. Thanks. I do know that the reference angle is 57.5, the inductive delay says 100.0. What you are experiencing is rather common. That is not a huge problem but it just means the IAC has no ability to lower the idle beyond what it is running at that point. The solution is to either lower the IAC hold position or increase the RPM above idle to start ramp (default is 1000 RPM). So check that timing and I think that you're going to find you need a good bit of advance. If your fuel pressure regulator has failed (and they often fail by blocking return fuel and maxing your fuel pressure) then it could lead to rich idle, particularly until your engine gets up to temp. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. Is that normal? Any idea's? I had this same exact issue. The problem I'm having is I cant get the IAC to drop down off 100%. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. The next time it happens is the perfect opportunity to find the problem. All in all, considering the system has been installed for less than 2 hours drive time we're BLOWN AWAY at how quickly it is "learning" this engine. In most cases the IAC (Idle Air Control) circuit is the source of the whistle. If idle drops below 800 it wont come back itll chug around 300 rpm for a few seconds then die. Incorrect connections will result in excessive resistance. With select intake manifolds, the distributor housing and IAC valve on the back of the Sniper EFI throttle body are fighting for the same . I am new to the EFI scene but want to learn. It is temperature dependent but 30 is commonly where you find it. If you have performed the adjustments above and still have RPM issues, it's time to look for clues. Given the circumstances I would say that it is either the IAC motor itself or RFI but you seem to have ruled both of those out. If I have seen a couple of videos on you tube of the same issue but they don't seem to have found the cure.I hope it is not a computer problem as I have already replaced the entire system because of another problem. But if you will just advance the timing at idle and see if it makes a difference then that will tell you what you need to know. That, on top of your air leak, is allowing the engine to idle at 2400 RPM. The learn percentage should gradually decrease to virtually nothing as the map plus learn table begin to get more and more accurate to your specific setup. When this occurs, I sometimes can shut it down and it will return to the correct settiings. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded. The window you saw in the image above pops up. A question I cannot get a 100% answer on is can you piggy back off the Sniper EFI TPS for an electronic transmission? But I still get the iac at 0 and the rpm at 1200. your IAC is at zero. The IAC is hanging open and not really at 0. 63 bomb But I am having troubles.When stepping on the accelerator slightly with idling, it will be 2000 RPM all the time. It's not that they (or any other manufacturer) is 100% perfect. If the vendor from whom you bought the system is coming up blank on ideas then don't hesitate to contact Holley's outstanding tech support department directly at 866-464-6553. We'll also be contacting you for future purchases now that I've discovered you! This was an issue in the earliest version of the Sniper firmware. Pw. With everything else being right and since you can make it start by adding fuel it seems like you must have some sort of fuel pressure issue. They are prone to be inaccurate. Kind of cuts into forum time. I can tell you that when things aren't working the way you wanted them to work that nothing beats knowing for-sure that you don't have a fuel supply problem. sniper Installation If you're installing a Sniper EFI system and almost ready to crank it over for the first time, this is the video for you! If no air is passing (and the idle doesn't drop) then your IAC is working. I appreciate the help youve given to everyone as it continually helps me! Throttle Tip-In tuning can be a bit of a challenge but I'm confident you can get this resolved, Mike.Let me start by saying that unless you've really done a lot of driving on the system in some useful learning situations then I would set this issue aside and not even think about it. It's all part of the adventure! About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. Some have suggested mis-setting sets the idle speed at 850 RPM but I suspect it is not a fixed number but rather a delta of about 300 RPM above the target. I cut and heat-shrink wrapped the 5V wire and then ran both the signal and ground wires all the way back to the transmission controller. Having a TPS that won't go lower than 9% will affect the acceleration enrichment correction, and could create a stumble at the first moment of throttle opening.Yes, the IAC can and will fluctuate depending on changing conditions. If you suspect this then try to find a situation where this occurs where you can safely check the secondary throttle shaft and see if i's slightly open. If you find that the IAC is more than 8 percent, repeat this process and instead of shooting for 50 RPM below your target make it only 40 RPM below the target idle speed. Reply Quote. You'll have to go back and forth a couple of times to get it just right. It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you either don't have adequate fuel flow or pressure. Am I missing something. In your case, however, I think you're close to getting it running. I managed to get the IAC down to around 0% - 8%is this good? If it does then you can put on a heavier spring so the advance doesn't come in as fast, or use a lighter weight. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. Intake has been on and off 3 times no change. Good afternoon Chris, thanks for taking the time to help all of these folks that didn't purchase from you- myself included!The issue I seem to be having is at idle in both park/neutral and drive. I recommend confirming there is no throttle linkage issue first. Physially manipulating the linkage by hand will generally reveal if you have a sticking linkage that is preventing the TPS from returning from zero. If the ECU has not spent some significant time learning yet, I'd recommend going back through the setup wizard and getting everything back to default. If it is then something is commanding the ECU to open the IAC. Your comment doesn't imply any sort of problem that would make me give up on idle timing control. I would continue checking the electrical connections along the fuel supply. I installed a Holley Sniper on my Ford Maverick 302 V8. That will at least tell you something. I have driven it a few times maybe 100 miles or so. Will restart but only for a minute or so a couple of times then shuts down fuel delivery and will not restart. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. )Take a look at your AFR during the starting process. *Possible delays due to Covid-19 click for more information. That is the only way to fly. I set the AFR at 13.5 and all is good now. I believe that you have this problem solved now with your new inline filter/regulator. The answer will divide the possible sources of additional air into two, greatly simplifying the problem.If the IAC number has not increased, then review the article above regarding high idle from a vacuum leak or high idle from sticking linkage. To get it to idle the tps is at 2-3-4% even with linkage disconnected and a return spring installed. Hey Chris! Once it commands that high idle I haven't found anything to return it to normal, other than shutting it down and restarting. If this is the case then some adjustment of the linkage or the butterfly plates themselves is necessary. And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. Don't try to correct for the fuel. Tps is saying 26% when it at idle. What can I do? The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. It's all part of the pleasure of EFI. If not then I think you are going to find that this will solve much of your problem. My dad wanted to recheck the timing so I set the Static Timing at 15 and it runs perfect. So try changing your IAC hold value slightly:Tuning : Advanced : Adv. and if you do run into any problems then, yes, the plethora of tunability adjustments available through either the handheld or the Sniper Software will certainly be enough to get you right where you need to be! I keep doing that with the same result. My IAC and TPS show zero when it does this. At some point you come upon problems that evade the easy answers and this is a good example. The only other thing I changed was accel enrich but whatever way I go doesn't seem to change anything unless I change it drastically. That, I am afraid, is going to involve a little bit of luck if you don't want to create a 250 MB data log. Eventually the IAC will drop back to zero, I'll readjust it to 850 RPM & 2-9%, and then watch it steadily climb again. back to trying to zero down an idle. I have a 406SBC that does most everything right with this sniper setup. Don't know if I should put this in a separate post. In the setup, I set the hot idle for 850. IAC looks good once it finally s fires. Engine warms up to 195 degrees and stays. At low levels RF interference will often reset the ECU so quickly that the engine will not stall. The first thing I'd do is check your fuel pressure with a gauge like this. Full product line and accessories at excellent pricing. Took it for a lap around the block and came back. Interesting question. Anyway I have a 327 sbc in a 1987 Monte SS with a T5 5 speed and 3:73 posi rear. Please help. Thank you very much. If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. If you go too high then the motor will not return to your target idle when you come off the throttle. But nothing beats a good solid gut-check It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. However, I can't think of a single one that was because of low vacuum. It drops about 200rpm when clutch engages. The learn function will offset the base fuel table until the closed-loop compensation only requires minimal changes. I have one customer who is having some similar issues and his AFR is down at 9.6:1 when it won't start. The distributor was loose. 90% of problems, (INCLUDING MYSELF) could be answered/fixed by just reading the instructions. It's pretty hard to get the header tubes glowing at idle with a lean AFR. This car has never idled under 900 without stalling with 3 carbs and does the same thing with sniper edit. started up the engine. You advise would be greatly appreciated. Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. Your task will be to find that. I'm compltely stumped and my wife is certainly upset I'm spending so much time between the garage and the computer for something that should basically run out of the box. :-). You might even want to add our 4-foot extension harness that will allow you to connect/disconnect the display or CAN-to-USB adapter from inside the car (rather than trying to do that leaning over the engine and under the breather. These are "transitional" cells, and you really have to make the effort to learn in these areas of the map. I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. Car was running great initially. Sniper setting is Stock camshaft. The team at EFI pro are some of the best I have ever dealt with when coming to ordering parts or having the knowledge to answer any question you may have. Even though the Sniper's fuel map is programmed to provide the correct amount of fuel via injectors spraying at 60 PSI, if the pressure is jacked up to 90 PSI the wideband sees that you are rich and faster than you can even detect it audibly lowers the duty cycle to inject the correct amount of fuel. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. Really appreciate the amount of learning im getting off here. Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. My issue is that the TP% will not reset with key cycle and its idleing at 9% TP. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. the case for wind power answer key lesson 17, allegheny county wanted list,
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